Using the space under the seat - Idea 2

[Andytech3]

Since I use my little ZhiDou as a work car because I make a living as an electrician, I often work on houses where either the electricity is not yet installed or in case of a breakdown I have to shut down the electricity, I immediately thought of using an inverter and taking 230V electricity directly from the traction battery. So I got an 83V to 230V 2kW/4kW inverter. Since the engine of the car itself can take 120A permanently from the traction battery, so some ridiculous 26A at 2kW will not be a problem for it.

Under the driver's seat, there were already 2 nuts firmly fixed to the floor. I don't know what they were originally intended for, but I decided to use them to attach the mounting plate to the DC/AC converter.

Then the mounting plate was sprayed and I was able to mount the DC/AC converter on it. Once again, it fits perfectly under the seat

[Andytech3]

My idea was that one socket would be directly on the DC/AC converter under the driver's seat and the other in the trunk area where I already have a 12V/20A socket. I bought 2 sockets with a cover and I also replaced the universal socket that was original on the converter with our EU socket.

Next, it was necessary to stretch two wires + and - under the plastic sills all the way to the front to the aluminum "Power box"

[Andytech3]

Already finished tidy cables. Black and red are the 83VDC power supply, white is the 3x2.5mm cable for the socket in the suitcase.

Then I needed to pass the cables through the sheet metal into the engine compartment and then into the Power box.

[Andytech3]

Once I had the cables in the Power Box, I needed to figure out how to fuse this whole thing. There's no room for the store-bought fuse case in the box, so I had to make my own custom fuse case.

I used 2 insulating cylinders and pins to create a fuse holder. Then I replaced one of the screws on the + branch with a 30mm pin, tightened the original connection with nuts, and made a connection to my fuse from the top of the pin. I solved the minus with the same 30mm pin.

All that remains for me is to solve the question of where to place the display from the inverter in the car (which I modified so that it can be connected to the inverter with any "LAN" RJ45 cable)

and solve the problem so that the inverter can be started even without the key in the ignition switch, but I already have a solution for that, which includes its own 12V battery charging module that can turn on the contactor in the traction battery. The module will be able to work with both a 12V gel battery and a 12V lead battery (just switch the lead/gel switch on the module), it has a built-in thermometer that changes the conditions for minimum and maximum battery voltages and at the same time an input for external switching on of the inverter even without the ignition switch on and automatic resetting when switching on and off the ignition switch in case I forget to turn it off manually myself

prototype